Whisky: Nikka from the Barrel

Producer: Nikka (Asahi Brewers)

Distilleries: Yoichi and Miyagikyo

Region: Hokkaido and Sendai, Japan

Whisky Type: A blend from over 100 batches of single malts and grain whiskies

Age: NAS

ABV: 51.4%

Aged in Cask: Ex-Bourbon, ex-Sherry, re-filled and re-charred hogshead

Price Range: $$

About Nikka from the Barrel

Nikka from the Barrel achieved cult-like status among Japanese whisky aficionados in the U.S. when it became available in August 2018. The blend made its name for its complexity and uniqueness despite not having an age statement on the label.

Nikka launched this expression in 1986 for its domestic market with a different flavor profile. The Japanese version of this blend focuses on wood, and spice, whereas the U.S. version focuses on sweeter, bourbon style flavors such as vanilla and caramel.

Nikka has won multiple awards in international whisky competitions. Some of the most distinguished awards are:

• 2019 International Spirits Challenge Trophy for TAKETSURU PURE MALT 25 YEARS OLD.
• 2019 World Whisky Awards. World’s Best Blended Malt for TAKETSURU PURE MALT 25 YEARS OLD.
• 2015 International Spirits Challenge. Distillery of the Year.

In addition to the prestige of winning international whisky competitions, Nikka has successfully attracted a largely female audience since 2014 due to its famous tv drama “Massan”, which tells the story of the life of Nikka’s founder Masataka Taketsuru. Thanks to the show Nikka reported a 50% increase in domestic sales and launched a limited edition whisky for Massan viewers.

The Taketsuru Story

In the early 1900s, there was not a western liquor industry in Japan due to low taxes on imported whisky as part of a US-Japan commerce agreement established in 1858, as a result, companies in the liquor business did not have the incentive to make whisky in Japan but to focus on selling imitation whisky. However, in 1916 a big spirits company named Settsu Shuzo hired Taketsuru for its western liquor division, and two years later sent Taketsuru to Scotland to study the whisky production process.

In April 1919, Taketsuru began his apprenticeship at Longmorn distillery in Strathspey, Scotland, continued at Bo’ness distillery in the Lowlands region, and finally in Hazelburn distillery in Campbeltown.

In 1920 Taketsuru moved back to Japan with detailed notes and schematics of equipment (i.e., pot stills, condensers, etc.) and a new bride, Rita Cowan, whom he met in Scotland. Unfortunately, unfavorable financial conditions did not allow Settsu Shuzo to move forward with the project.

Taketsuru continued working for the company until 1922. A year later, he joined Shinjiro Torii (a former client of Settsu Shuzo and founder of Suntory) at Yamazaki distillery as head of the whisky production and created the first whisky distillery in Japan.

Torii and Taketsuru worked together until 1934 when Taketsuru decided to start his own company Nikka, and build a new distillery named Yoichi on the remote island of Hokkaido. The location of Yoichi in the far north provided a climate similar to that of Scotland, with cold winters and peat available for malting the barley.

Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru are considered the founding fathers of the Japanese whisky industry. Today, Suntory and Nikka are rival companies, and together they have more than 50% of the market share of whisky in Japan.

Nikka Whisky Distilling Co., Ltd.

Nikka has two distilleries, Yoichi in the northern island of Hokkaido and Miyagikyo, in the city of Sendai, which provides a humid microclimate that is good for maturation and closer than Yoichi to major markets, like Tokyo. These distilleries produce complementary flavors. Yoichi is focused on the production of single malts, while Miyagikyo focuses on the production of grain whisky.

Yoichi Distillery

The distillery is located on the northern island of Hokkaido, which has a similar climate to that of Scotland. Yoichi is famous for its hearty and smoky single malts that won them several international awards. The distillery feels like a Scottish distillery, and its whiskies reflect that style. Perhaps this was Taketsuru’s gift to his wife Rita. Some disctintive aspects of this distillery are:

• Fruity Flavors. A wort (sugary liquid resulting from cooking the grain) fermented for five days gives fragrant aromas of fruit to its whiskies due to the intentional growth of lactic acid bacteria in the wash.
• Direct Fire. Yoichi is one of few distilleries in the world that still use direct fire to heat the stills through coal. Scotland has moved on to more economical ways to make their whisky, with only a handful of distilleries (Glenfiddich, Glenfarclas, and Springbank) continuing to use the old school method. The reason for using coals is because it gives extra complexity (deep roasted flavor) and character to the spirit due to fluctuations in temperature. However, it is more labor-intensive as it requires frequently moving the coals to prevent the wash from burning inside the still. The use of coal is also less safe than using steam coils, as it can burn the stillman if the flame gets out of control.

Miyagikyo Distillery

Just like Yoichi is all about tradition, Miyagikyo is all about a modern approach to whisky. Experimenting with different types of yeast, fermenting times, and distilling cuts is part of the DNA of this distillery to create quality grain whisky. Here’s what you can expect from Miyagikyo:

• Unique Flavor Profile. The whiskies are similar in flavor to the Lowland style from Scotland. While Yoichi is heavier and smokier, grain whisky from Miyagikyo is soft and light.
• Different Styles of Grain Whisky. The distillery makes five types of grain whisky. These styles vary from light grain to super heavy, based on different yeast strains and collecting the spirit at different heights from the column still.

Single Grain whisky is made with any other cereal grain, other than malted barley like corn or wheat (malted or unmalted), and produced by only one distillery.

Grain whisky has a lighter body and texture, which offsets the intense and robust flavor from the single malt. Combine the two types of whiskies, and what do you get?, you guessed it, Blended Whisky!

Tasting Notes for Nikka from the barrel

Nikka from the barrel is a blended whisky made from Yoichi single malts and Miyagikyo grain whisky. Here are the tasting notes.

Nose: Elegant aromas of butter, caramel, and sherry.

Palate: The arrival is sweet and rich with caramel, developing nicely into oak spices, ginger, and more dried fruits from the sherry.
The taste could be too punchy for new palates due to the richness and high alcohol strength. Adding a teaspoon of water accentuates the flavors associated with bourbon, restrains the spices, but is still very enjoyable.

Finish: Surprisingly long finish for a NAS whisky with very noticeable rich caramel and spicy oak notes.

Conclusion: An exceptional non-age statement blend that delivers depth and richness in one experience for a modest price. Feel free to try this whisky neat, with water, and even with a cube of ice because it accentuates different flavors based on how you enjoy it. Cheers!

Awards for Nikka from the Barrel

• TROPHY Best International Blend Year 2015 in the International Spirits Challenge.
• Whisky Advocate Magazine Whisky of the Year 2018.

Score: 4/5 ⭐

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